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DIALED IN

 

Welcome to Dialed In - the page where you learn how to adjust various items on your DS650.  All of our how-to's are submitted by our readers.  

Got a tip to share?  Click here.


Subject: Carburetor Submitted by: 'buttfungus' of The Colony, Texas
Tip: Replace the 4 Philips head screws with 3 4x10mm & 1 4x12mm stainless allen head screws.  This will make your jetting adjustments take only a minute or two.  http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

Subject: Jetting Submitted by: 'Hightower' from Greencastle, Indiana
Tip: Make sure the air screw is adjusted correctly - this can be tricky more some people. Turn screw in until motor starts to bog, then start turning back out, counting each 1/2 turn, until it bogs again. Position screw exactly half way between the two pints of bogging. Position of this crew can have an effect on idle speed, so after you do the above positioning, you may have to reset idle speed - roughly 1300rpm - and then re-position air screw again.

 

Subject: Race Sag Submitted by: '3TV' from Utah
Tip: Front race sag should be set at 3 1/2" with you seated on the quad. In other words, lift up on the front of the quad so that the suspension is fully extended, and measure from the ground to one of the front bumper bolts. Then sit on the quad, jump up and down, roll the quad back and forth, and make sure the suspension is settled to the height it will be at with you sitting on the quad in your normal riding position. Then have someone measure from the ground to the same bumper bolt; the measurement should be 3 1/2" less than the unloaded measurement.  Make the same adjustment for the rear suspension, except race sag should be set at 4" - 4 1/2".

Be sure to adjust the race sag first, being as the amount of sag will affect the toe setting. And set the toe with the ATV at ride height. If you set the toe with the suspension fully drooped, and the ATV sitting on a floor jack, you will have too much toe-out at ride height.

 

Subject: Toe Adjustment Submitted by: '3TV' from Utah
Tip: Toe should be set at 1/8" toe out, with you seated on the quad. (more later)

 

Subject: Shock Adjustment Submitted by: 'fourlix' from Gila, New Mexico
Tip: As far as the adjustable dampening goes, the best way is to put a screwdriver in your pocket and go for a ride. You'll feel it when the shock is too stiff on compression, and too loose, rebound is a little harder. You want the rebound to be loose enough to rebound on quick repeated hits, but not bounce back and hit you in the butt. Mine are set very loose, with just about 5 clicks, I think, from minimum.

Remember that the basic shock valving is only changed by rebuilding. The adjustments on all rezzies are a fine tuning that is in addition to the shocks regular valving, which is speed sensitive and more, and quite sophisticated. In contrast, the adjustments you make at the rezzy and the shock base control fluid to and from the rezzy in a very simple incremental way. So the very best setup is for the shocks to be just a little light, dampening wise, both compression and rebound, so the rezzy adjustments can add just that little bit to make them dead-on.

 

Subject: Jet Needle Submitted by: Chris Deakins, Greencastle, IN
Tip: On the stock 42BSR carb, the bottom of the slide tunnel where the jet needle sits is D-shaped. There are two spacers that sit crooked on this D-shaped shoulder, under the needle clip, which causes the jet needle to be crooked and rub the needle jet. Sand a flat on the spacers, so they sit flat in the D, to eliminate wear on the needle and promote better fuel atomization.

 

Subject: Suspension / Toe Setup Submitted by: Chris (Hightower)

This is going to be a long one.....but well worth the reading.....  

Steering dampers are a great item, but they are built for all bikes for a purpose - to reduce "bump steer" - which is what happens when you hit an obstacle. They are great to have, but only a bandaid to the DS steering issue.

The DS's sensitive steering is from too little caster, as Tech Editor says. Too little caster makes the steering more sensitive, and is compounded by improper suspension and toe settings, as well as tires that suck. First you must set up the front and rear shocks for your weight, then correctly set the toe-out, and then if the budget allows get rid of the Dominators - all four - and get some real tires. Ohtsus, Holeshots, Razors, Bandits, etc.

Suspension -
REAR SAG should be 30% of shock travel (3.5"-4"). Lift rear bumper up until shock is fully extended, measure to floor, YOU get on the bike and measure again. Difference should be no more than 4", I like 3.5". Adjust preload on spring to achieve this. This will also keep the chain off the chain roller more often.

FRONT SAG should be about 20% of travel (2.5"-3"). Stretch out the shocks, measure from bumper to floor. YOU get on the bike, jump up and down and rock her back and forth a bit, sit down and have somebody measure again. Difference should be around 2.5"-3".

TOE - After the suspension is set, its time for toe. Toe must be measured with YOU on the seat. Have somebody measure across the front of the tires - center to center, then across the back of the tires - center to center. Measurements should be taken level with the spindles front and back. The difference is toe. Tie rods should adjusted to achieve TOE-OUT of no more than 1/8" (front measurement 1/8" more than rear measurement), and no less than neutral (equal).

After doing these things, you will feel a great improvement. Keep in mind that toe changes as suspension travels, so if you change the suspension set-up at any time, toe will need re-addressed. This is why you set up the suspension first.

Getting new tires will help even more - a rounder and softer front tire will improve things, and the larger the diameter of the front tire, the greater the increase in caster. At the same time, the larger the rear tire, the less caster you'll have. The guys that go with 22" rears are probably in more need of the a-arm fix, but definitely try the above set-up before you drop the dough.

After all the above you will undoubtedly love your bike much more. If its not quite enough for you taste or rider weight, then you'll need upper A-Arms. Stock caster is 5 degrees, ideally you would set the new arms from 7-9 degrees, but after doing the above steps for free, you may decide its good enough.

Additional notes by: Fourlix (Alex)

Many things will help, but nothing totally cures the twitchy steering except for a pair of aftermarket upper a-arms which increase caster to anywhere from 6 to 9 degrees. Bigger front tires help, steering stabilizers help, lowering the rear will help, dialing in your suspension, especially toe, will help. But nothing will fix the problem like fixing the problem, which is too little caster. Just do it.

 

Subject: Axle Bearing Preload Procedure Submitted by: Steve Harthun, The Colony, Texas
http://www.ds650.net/installationnotes/preloadprocedure.htm


Subject: Mikuni vs. Dynojet Main Jet Comparisons Submitted by: Steve Harthun, The Colony, Texas
http://www.ds650.net/installationnotes/mikunivsdynojet.htm
 

 


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DS650.net is not liable for any damages or liabilities resulting from trying any solution(s) and/or modification(s) listed on the website.  We are simply a place where owners/riders can submit their tips and information to other owners/riders.